Hartland Quay and Speke’s Mill
An old harbour and a clifftop waterfall on North Devon’s coast path
North Devon / Day Walk
Hartland Quay is perched on the west side of the North Devon Coast, facing out across the Atlantic to North America. The quaint quay hosts a pub, with plenty of pub food/hot chocolates to warm yourself after a dip in the sea, or a potentially windy walk along the coast path to Speke’s Mill, a dramatic tiered waterfall down the cliffs to the beach below.
Summary
Time needed
About 1hr 30 (30mins walk each way)
Distance
2 miles
Difficulty
Rough underfoot, with some steep climbs, but relatively short
Cost
Free apart from parking toll
Parking
Toll to access parking, but no parking charge
Type of Walk
There and back, but longer loop is available
Highlights
- Take a stroll on the beach or a quick dip, and admire the folded rocks known as the Crackington Formation
- Dip your feet in Speke’s Mill Mouth Waterfall
- Try to spot seals or birds of prey (such as the perigrine falcon) from the coast path
- Finish with an ice-cream at Hartland Quay Hotel
Walking from Hartland Quay to Speke’s Mill Mouth
The walk starts at Hartland Quay car park, leaving directly south along the coast path. Whilst it is steep in places, and can be a little muddy depending on the weather, it’s very well trodden and you can’t really get lost if you keep the sea on your right. The first major marker is St Catherine’s Tor, forming a rough half-dome due to the constant coastal erosion. There is a very small waterfall at the base of the Tor as you approach from the north. Look out for goats here, and also buzzards/falcons; it’s a very windy day, also look out for the spray from the waterfall coming back onto the path!
Note: If you have dogs or small children, do be careful of the edge; the cliffs are slowly eroding with the fence being moved inland every couple of years.
A small plank bridge crosses a small stream, with a climb over the next hill revealing Speke’s Mill waterfall, as well as access down to a beach. Once at Speke’s Mill, a steep but manageable path can take you down to the base of the first waterfall, as well as to a couple of viewpoints. There are several climbing routes to the side of the waterfall, which start with a small hop over the water. Back on the flat patch of grass, a series of wooden steps take you down to the beach if you can handle the climb back up!
From here, you can either take the farm track to your left to do a longer loop, continue along the coast path, or turn back to Hartland Quay.
Back at Hartland Quay, grab some ice-cream/food from the Wrecker’s Retreat, and enjoy the beach. It’s a mix of sandy/rocky bottom, and at low tide there is a lot to explore, with a wide but shallow cave under the cliffs (although be cautious of landslips/rockfall). If you have bodyboards, it is possible to take them out at Hartland Quay, although there are better beaches for this nearby if that’s the main activity you want to do.
Getting there
The easiest way to Hartland Quay is by car, taking a turning from the A39 to travel through Hartland, and continue onwards to the Quay. It is possible to get a bus to Hartland from Barnstaple, but it is not the quickest!
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