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Doubtful Sound
fiordland, new zealand
We decided to push the boat out, both literally and metaphorically, with a trip to Doubtful Sound. To be truthful, we were struggling to work out whether we needed to go to both Milford and Doubtful Sound, and whilst there were some excellent blogs that discussed the Pros and Cons, FOMO (fear of missing out) got the better of us.
We booked through Real NZ, and managed to get a discount by combining it with the glow-worm caves, which was helpful given the price of an overnight “cruise”. I use cruise in quotations as for me it normally conjures up images of a giant white ship ploughing it’s way through the sea, which wasn’t exactly the case on Doubtful Sound.
You can’t drive yourself there, which wasn’t too much of a deal for us as we didn’t have a car. Instead, a ferry leaves from Manapouri (fortunately Real NZ did a pickup from Te Anau), crossing the stunning Lake Manapouri to the base of the Hydroelectric powerstation on the other side. We tried to spot where we’d camped on the Kepler track, but didn’t get much father than “it must be over there somewhere”.
The visitor centre at the drop-off point has decent toilets, some infographics, and a number of models and old parts from the hydroelectric station; enough to keep you reasonably entertained (and dry) while waiting for the coach.
First glimpse of Doubtful Sound
We bounced along the rough road until we reached the saddle, where we pulled off the road. Below us lay Doubtful Sound, gouged into the greenery.
The tree in the photo is apparently famous, as it was in the first ever tourist add for Doubtful Sound – fun fact courtesy of our coach driver.
Our coach driver was full of excitement and information in equal measure; facts about the local wildlife were mixed with quotes of “the best thing you can do for New Zealand as a tourist is to run over possums whenever you seem them – don’t swerve, just accelerate”.
While that’s probably not the party line, I feel that DOC probably share the sentiment…
The Boat
The boat was beautiful. We were a little nervous about our living situation as we’d booked 2 bunks to keep things cheap, but it turned out we had a 4 bunk room to ourselves!
That said, we tried to keep as much time on deck as possible, as we hadn’t come all this way to enjoy a cabin!
Making the most of the foredeck…
We met the crew (which included guides and a nature expert), made the most of the complimentary teas and coffee, and plonked ourselves on the foredecks. The wind was blustery, but given Fiordland’s reputation for rain, we were just glad to be dry! The wall of the fjord towered either side of us, with trees desperately clinging to the cracks in the rock, whilst we gently motored along the strip of dark water.
Peeking down valleys
Making the most of the snacks
Heading out of the sound
As we made our way towards the sea, the history of Doubtful Sound was narrated by the crew.
Doubtful Sound History
Doubtful Sound was named Doubtful Harbour by Captain Cook as he sailed past, but didn’t enter, and was later renamed Doubtful Sound, although technically it was a fjord (the deep-sided walls have been carved by a glacier). It has now been amended to be Doubtful Sound/Patea.
According to Maori legend, Fiordland was also the birthplace of the Sandfly (now one of my least favourite animals). After Tu-te-raki-whanoa had carved the 14 fiords with his adze (stopping with his greatest creation at Milford Sound), it was feared that humans would be transfixed by the beauty of the fjordlands. Therefore, the goddess Hine-nui-te-pō created the sandfly in order to bite people out of their reverie… From our experience, it definitely works!
Around halfway there, we stopped for a kayak around the bay, as well as a swim. The swim was poorly attended – only about 6 of us jumped in for a dip, although once our feet hit the water it was pretty clear why!
We were lucky enough to spot a colony of seals as we headed out onto the open seas (albeit at a distance), as well as a couple of penguins, whilst seabirds soared constantly overhead. Despite our best efforts, we didn’t spot any whales.
The weather on the evening was fantastic. First, we were treated to a double rainbow, and then a striking sunset behind the clouds. We spent a little too long outside admiring it, and almost missed dinner! The food was great, and it was very good from a gluten-free (coeliac) side too. Board games were also plentiful, which was great for the post-dinner lull.
We woke up early, expecting a beautiful sunrise. Unfortunately, it was just grey, that slowly got lighter, so we perked ourselves up with more coffee instead.
The highlight of the second day was the “pause”. In a secluded bay, the captain asked everyone to be silent for a couple of minutes, and turned off the engines. The water was still, and all you could hear were the birds in the forest – it sounds a bit corny, but that doesn’t make it less of a special moment.
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